Promenade Plantée

Monday, August 30, 2010 Day 61


Today we took the metro over the Gare de Lyon, which is the station from which we will leave in two days. We wanted to scope out the lay of the land before arriving there Wednesday laden with our eight pieces of luggage. We learned that there are almost no escalators to the platform level, and only one elevator, which is on the far side of the station from where the taxi will drop us (another example of the inaccessibility of much of Paris to those with limited mobility or lots of luggage).

After familiarizing ourselves with the station, we left and walked to the Promenade Plantée, which was until recently the only elevated park in the world. It is a linear park built on an abandoned rail line which, for almost three miles is almost 10 meters high, and is planted with trees and shrubs (but not many flowers). It is only 15-20 feet wide – just wide enough for two rail lines and some shoulder. There is a pair of basins at one end designed for flowing water, but which are silent now. It is also known as the Coulée verte, or Green Corridor. After 2.8 miles, the viaduct slopes down to ground level at a lovely park, then continues below street level for another mile or so, where it ends in a narrow spiral staircase up to the street. The whole area, both aboveground and below, provides sanctuary from the city which is only a few steps away at any given spot in the park – truly another of Paris’ delightful parks.